Deer Vs. Gardeners II

I used to say that while we had a few deer visitors every year at PPCG, the humans always took home more from their gardens than the deer did.

And then last year happened.

Going into our 2019 growing season, I’m going to assume that if we want more harvest than heartbreak, we’re going to need to start off with active defenses. The good news is that many of us found some reasonable solutions that worked well for us.

For more info about deer control, see this post. Here I’m going to focus on the methods that seemed to work well for our gardeners, along with a few sources and best prices. (If you find some better options, please share!)

Repellent: Plantskydd

At least one of our gardeners, Gary  (plot 31), had good luck with this product, which is sprayed on plants. OMRI-listed, it’s main ingredient is dried animal blood. For the best results, you’ll want to spray it early in the season, before deer get a taste of what’s in your garden. 

Pros:  One of the least expensive options in terms of initial outlay. No need to struggle with fence installation. Allows you to keep your garden open and easily accessed. Doesn’t wash off in rain. Organic.

Cons: Needs to be applied to new growth, so you do have to keep up with it. Since its main ingredient is animal blood, it (1) may not be an option for vegetarian gardeners and (2) will add nitrogen to your soil, which you may or may not want. Also, although the product specifies it’s safe for garden vegetable plants, you can’t spray it on any part of the plant that you intend to eat, such as lettuce leaves or tomatoes. There’s also a granular formula that you can sprinkle around your plants.

Available at: Amazon for $23.99 for a 32-oz. spray bottle or at Park Seed for $21.95. Check here for local dealer locations. You can also buy larger quantities in powder concentrate that you have to mix and a granular formula for sprinkling.

Fence Option 1: Multi-Purpose Netting

IMG_20180503_103531591.jpgJun (plot 24) and I (plot 30, photo right) used this product by Tenax with good success. At 4-feet tall, it’s an easy jump for deer,  but I’ve read that deer don’t normally like to jump into enclosed spaces as small as our gardens. For extra measure, I put a few obvious tomato cages inside my plot to clutter up the landing zone.

This product is sturdier than the netting described below, but not really sturdy enough to support  vines such as cucumbers. I installed it using 60-inch u-posts, slipping the fence onto the hooks on the posts as I wrapped it around the garden. 

Pros: Sturdy. Should last a few years. Relatively easy to install; I was able to do it myself. Most difficult part for me was pounding in the u-posts. Allows easy access to gardens–just unhook the netting from the posts. (The whole garden can be opened quickly and easily.) Even though it’s thicker than the deer netting below, it’s still unobtrusive and doesn’t cast significant shade. Can also be purchased in 7′ x 100′ rolls, enough to keep out jumpers from two garden plots. 

Cons: Costs about $24 for the netting plus $27 – $45 for 6 – 10 u- or t-posts. Not a good choice for folks who don’t want to go to the trouble of installation or who don’t like enclosed garden spaces. Not tall enough to prevent jumpers or “leaner-overs.” The 7′-tall fencing will need sturdy, more expensive posts to be installed properly.

Available at: Lowes in Weymouth and on Amazon.

 

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Fence Option 2: Deer/ Wildlife Netting

Product Image 2A few gardeners used a product like this one, which is finer and less stiff than the multi-purpose netting above. They installed it using bamboo or green plastic garden posts, attaching the fence to them with twine, zip ties, or tomato Velcro. I’ve also seen recommendations to hook the netting onto nails, screws, or cup hooks fastened to wooden garden stakes, which then could function a lot like the netting above.

Pros: Tall enough to keep the champion jumpers out. Reusable. Lightweight and unobtrusive. No problems with product casting shade. Depending on how it’s installed, it can be removed easily if you need better access to your garden for maintenance, etc.. The cost of the netting itself is reasonable, around $20.

Cons: Must be secured properly. Potential tripping hazard. Does a number on our lawnmower. Ideally, should be marked with flagging tape so deer see it and don’t blunder into it. Could be chewed or torn. A little fiddly to use. Best installed with a second set of hands. To make full advantage of the height, you need tall support posts, which may cost more than the netting itself.

 

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Barrier Cover: Bird Netting

Bird netting is similar in weight to the wildlife netting above, but sold in dimensions that allow you to drape it over large sections. This option is a good, inexpensive one if you want to protect certain plants or sections of your garden. 

 

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Pros: Perhaps the least expensive option. Allows you to section off areas of your garden, leaving open access to other areas. 

Cons: Like the wildlife netting, it’s fiddly to use. Must be secured properly! (I used clothes pins, attaching the netting to twine stretched between stakes.) Potential tripping hazard. Gets tangled in our lawnmower. Depending on how it’s installed, can make garden access annoying. Your plants won’t like bumping up against it, so your netting supports have to be taller than your plants at full height.

 

Available at: Lowes in Weymouth and Home Depot in Quincy. (See photos below.) 

 

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Final Thoughts…

Repellents, fencing, or cover netting…there’s no perfect solution here, but we managed to find a few workable options that allowed us to recover last summer. Pick the one that works best for you and go for it–early in the season. It’s better to set up your repellents and barriers as soon as possible, before deer get a taste of the good stuff  in your garden.

Happy gardening, everyone!

 

Getting Started at PPCG (Part 4): Plant Choices and Sources

PPCG is an organic garden, but you do not need to grow seeds and seedlings labelled “organic” for your plots. Choose organic plants if you want to support sustainable agricultural practices and don’t mind paying a little extra for them.

As you are deciding what to grow, also consider…

What do you like? What will you enjoy harvesting from your garden?

You’ll get the most from your garden if you grow plants you enjoy. Myself, I have an ambivalent relationship with kale. It grows easily and early, before almost anything else. But by mid summer it’s still producing and taking up space and getting a little tough. Really, it’s okay to “edit” your plot. Avoid the “kale trap.” It’s your plot to enjoy.

Is the plant or seed labelled heirloom, open-pollinated or hybrid?

pexels-photo-432793.jpegHeirloom varieties are often considered tastier and are a must if you want to grow to save seeds. By growing heirloom and open-pollinated seeds, you’ll be helping to maintain genetic diversity. On the other hand, hybrids can offer greater ease because they are often bred to overcome problems such as common diseases. Check out this article from the L.A. Times on heirloom vs. hybrid tomatoes.

 

What’s the level of difficulty for a particular plant?

Here are a few challenges and successes we’ve had at PPCG:

  • Cabbage is tricky to “head up.”
  • Broccoli bolts to seed readily in warm weather, before anything is harvested and takes up a lot of space.
  • Corn is another space hog that yields little.
  • Squash is prone to powdery mildew and vine borers.
  • Peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, zinnias, bunching onions, peas, green beans, and lettuces and other salad greens are all fairly easy crops that have good yields in our gardens.

How quickly will your plant mature?

There is a wide range in time until harvest among varieties of the same type of plant. Especially if you are planning to try to fit in successive plantings, you may want to choose a variety that matures quickly.

tomato-food-nutrition-plant-161554.jpegFor tomatoes in particular, consider whether your plants are determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants produce tomatoes all at once, which means you’ll have a lot of tomatoes to eat and process in a big batch. Indeterminate tomatoes grow and produce indefinitely. For a steadier flow, read estimated maturation dates carefully. A mix of varieties can spread out your tomato harvest.

 

Seeds or Seedlings?

A number of crops grow much better when directly sown by seed in the garden. Root crops such as carrots, radishes, turnips, and beets are good examples. Crops such as zucchini and beans can be transplanted, but often do better or grow quickly enough that they can be sown directly in the garden.  Other crops such as tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers require a long growing season and should be started indoors before being planted out in the garden when warmer weather arrives. Read your seed packets for recommended growing information.

For ease, most of our gardeners buy plants from nonprofit organizations and garden centers that are ready for the garden. See below for resources.

Where to buy? Our gardeners have a few favorites…

For seeds, our gardeners like Johnny’s Selected Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, Fedco, Burpee, Territorial Seed, and Baker Creek, to name a few. Find more resources on seed growing here on our blog.

For organic products, try Gardens Alive or Gard.in in Braintree.

For plants, watch for excellent plant sales at Holly Hill Farm (especially their wide selection of tomatoes, organically grown!), Brookwood Farm, City Natives in Boston, Southside Community Land Trust in Providence, and Marshfield Agricultural Commission.

Or check out garden centers such as Christopher’s (across from BJ’s in Weymouth on Rte. 53), the plant stand on Southern Artery in Quincy (in the Goodwill parking lot), Almquist in Quincy, Kennedy’s in Scituate, or for further afield, try Peckham’s in Little Compton, RI. Do you have other favorites? Let us know!


Continued…

Part 5: Planting

Part 6: Garden Maintenance

In case you missed it…

Part 1: Organic Gardening and Soil

Part 2: Our Growing Season and Gardening Resources

Part 3: Garden Design

Playing the Odds with Frost Dates

Here in Massachusetts, I’ve often gone by the rough guideline of waiting until Memorial Day weekend to put out all but my cold-tolerant plants. It’s not a terrible guideline, but the date of Memorial Day does vary from year to year, from as early as May 25 to as late as May 31. It’s also too late for certain cool weather crops and can unnecessarily cut short your garden’s growing season.

Official frost dates are often given as a single number, such as this date given on the Old Farmer’s Almanac website.

farmers alm frost date

Here, the frost date is listed as April 16, which is quite a difference from the Memorial Day guideline.

A few things can be noted about this chart. (1) It uses weather data from South Weymouth.  And (2) it calculates a spring frost date at which there is still a 50% chance of a later spring frost. (Update: Old Farmer’s Almanac now uses 30% odds, which moves the frost date back to April 22.)

How lucky are you feeling at 50-50 odds? (Or the updated 30% risk of frost?)

I’d definitely feel okay about putting out kale at this time, which says nothing about my feelings toward kale. (It’s all right.) Kale can take the cold weather.

For a better sense of frost dates, I like this chart from garden.org. (Click here to see the full chart; excerpt is below.)

Temp (in Deg F) 10% 50% 90%
Last 16 Mar 25 Mar 10 Feb 24
Last 20 Mar 31 Mar 19 Mar 8
Last 24 Apr 12 Mar 30 Mar 17
Last 28 Apr 27 Apr 15 Apr 4
Last 32 May 15 Apr 30 Apr 16
Last 36 May 25 May 13 May 1

According to this chart, there’s only a 10% risk that temperatures will drop below 32 degrees F after May 15. Now we’re getting closer to the old rule of thumb. But note that there’s still a 10% risk of 36 degree weather after May 25, which could set back members of the nightshade family (e.g., tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, peppers). Warm weather crops don’t just need frost protection, but also warmer growing conditions to fully thrive. (Side Note: For a number of reasons, your garden may experience colder temperatures than those measured at local weather stations. Using the dates associated with 36 degrees gives you a little bit of insulation from frost.)

Click here if you’d like to see another chart, but don’t get too bogged down in the numbers. We’re looking for guidelines based on data, not one proven date.

Bottom line? “Frost date” is better expressed as a range of dates and probabilities.

Also think about…

  • How cold-tolerant your plants are.
  • How much risk you can handle and how sad you would feel if you froze that one special tomato plant variety you can’t get anywhere else.
  • How willing you are to take some extra measures to protect your plants if a frost bogey threatens crops in late spring/early fall.
  • How long you can hold your young plants in their containers. They’ll take some time to recover if they start to get pot bound before you put them out, which is another kind of risk.